The French Cook | by Louis Eustache

Many professional men have written on this subject; but very few of them have possessed at once the theory and practice of the art. I must own, that my severity towards my apprentices, and my unremitting care in keeping the inferiors who attended me, in a state of constant assiduity in what concerned the cleanliness of the kitchen as well as of the larder, has been of the utmost advantage to myself as well as to them: I have the satisfactory reward of seeing all my pupils held in the highest estimation by persons of the greatest distinction. I shall in this edition, as I did in the former, say, that Cookery is an art appreciated by only a very few individuals, and which requires, in addition to a most diligent and studious application, no small share of intellect, and the strictest sobriety and punctuality: without the latter, the very best Cook is unavoidably deficient in the delicacies of his profession: there are cooks, and cooks, as there are painters, and painters: the difficulty lies in finding the perfect one; and I dare assert, that the nobleman who has in his service a thorough good one, ought to be as proud of the acquisition, as of possessing in his gallery a genuine production of the pencil of Rubens, Raphael, or Titian.

Chapters

1. PREFACE
   "THE FRENCH COOK BY LOUIS EUSTACHE UDE, to the genuine amateurs of good cheer, the following pages are respectfully inscribed, by their very devoted, humble servant, the author. SEVENTH EDITION. LONDON: JOHN EBERS, 27, OLD BOND-STREET. 1822. Printed by S. R. BENTLEY, Dorset..."
2. ON COOKERY, AND ITS IMPUTED ILL EFFECTS ON HEALTH
   "Many persons, but particularly Medical Practitioners, have from time immemorial been the declared enemies of Cooks and Cookery. The determination of the latter to keep mankind under their despotic dominion, has engaged them in a perpetual warfare against whatever might oppose their peculiar inter..."
3. CHAP. I. SAUCES, BROTHS, AND CONSOMMES
   "No. 1. - First Broth. Take part of a breast or of a rump of beef, with some of the parures, or trimmings. Put the meat into a stock pot with cold water. Set it on the fire, and watch the proper moment to skim it well. If this broth is not clear and bright, the other broths and sauces wi..."
4. CHAP. II. POTAGES AND SOUPS
   "No. 1. - Soupe de Sante, or au Naturel. Take some broth well skimmed, and the fat taken off. Take thin slices of crust of bread, cut round, of the size of a shilling. Soak them separately in a little broth. As you are going to serve up, put the whole into a tureen without shaking, for f..."
5. CHAP. III. REMOVES OF THE SOUPS AND FISH
   "No. 1. - Rump of Beef glazed. The rump is undoubtedly the best part of the beef, and particularly for French cookery; it is necessary to select for this dish, that which is most covered with fat; cut out the small fillet first; then take out the bone, and tie it round of a good shape; p..."
6. CHAP. IV. FARCES, OR FORCED MEAT
   "No. 1. - Quenelles of Veal. Take the fleshy part of veal, cut it into slices, and scrape it with your knife till you have got off all the meat without the sinews. About half a pound of this rasped meat is sufficient for an entree. Boil either in your stock-pot, or in plain water, a calf..."
7. CHAP. V. ENTREES OF BUTCHER'S MEAT. BEEF
   "No. 1. - Blanquette of Palates of Beef. Take six or eight palates of beef, rub them over with salt, and stew them in a blanc, till you can take off the upper skin. When the palates are thus skinned and done, cut them into the size of shilling pieces, and throw them into the sauce a blan..."
8. CHAP. VI. ENTREES OF MUTTON-MUTTON AND LAMB
   "It is necessary to observe to the junior cook, that almost every thing which is made with mutton, may be made also with lamb; with this only difference, that lamb being the tenderest meat, it requires less doing. If you make haricot of lamb, you must sautez the cutlets first, and then boil them i..."
9. CHAP. VII. ENTREES OF VEAL
   "It is necessary to observe, that the veal you intend to serve for dishes must always be very white and fat; what you use for sauces is not of so much consequence ; but I am sure that very white veal is more healthy than common veal; red veal will disorder a great many stomachs, white never does.<..."
10. CHAP. VIII ENTREES OF FOWL
    "Observation. - When you have an opportunity of buying: the fowls yourself, choose always white- legged ones; their flesh is finer, and the skin tender; they also took better at table. The manner of fattening fowls is, to separate them from the other chickens \ mix together some oatmeal,, milk, bo..."
11. CHAP. IX. ENTREES OF FAT CHICKENS
    "It is almost useless to describe what can be made with fat chickens. Whatever can be made with fowl, can also be made with chicken. The only difference is in the length of time requisite for dressing them. No. 1. - Chickens a l' lvoire. Take two chickens of the same size and equ..."
12. CHAP. X. ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES, YOUNG AND OLD
    "No. 1. - Whole Partridges a l' Espagnole. It is necessary to observe, that except for partridges with cabbage, or partridges with puree of Untitles, young ones are required: these in general have yellowish claws; but it will sometimes happen that the claws and legs are of a grey, or eve..."
13. CHAP. XI. RABBITS
    "No. 1. - Fillets of young Rabbits a la Orlie. It is to be observed, that warren rabbits only ought to be sent up to a good table, tame rabbits in general having no savour but that of cabbage; and you must be particular in using for table only young rabbits; this you may ascertain, by br..."
14. CHAP. XII. HARES AND LEVERETS
    "It is proper to observe, that hares are fit to be sent up to a nobleman's table, only when they still shew their age. In order to judge of their age, feel the first joint of the fore claw: if you find a small nut, the animal is still young: should this nut have disappeared, turn the claw sideways..."
15. CHAP. XIII. FRESH-WATER FISH. CARP
    "No. 1. - Broiled Carp with Caper Sauce. You must never use fresh-water fish unless it is alive, and you kill it yourself. When you have given a few strokes on the carp's head with a large knife, thrust your knife under the scales, beginning at the tail, and proceed to cut right and left..."
16. CHAP. XIV. SALT-WATER FISH
    "No. 1. - Turbot. A tuRbot of a middling size is preferable to any other. When very large, the meat is tough and thready. It is customary in France, and the same must be done in every country, to empty the fish, and to wash out all the blood. Some gentlemen are much mis..."